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FASHION / Garments and what they say

A t Versailles, Louis XIV understood that silk and stitching could be statecraft. His regulated luxury — silver brocade, towering wigs, red-heeled shoes —...

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A t Versailles, Louis XIV understood that silk and stitching could be statecraft. His regulated luxury — silver brocade, towering wigs, red-heeled shoes — marked rank as plainly as a coat of arms. Key sections include: FASHION / Garments and what they say; Dressing for the Sun King; The garment, multiplied; Worth: the first designer; Chanel cuts the corset; Dior's New Look : the hourglass returns; Hemlines up, boundaries down; Street steals the spotlight; The black revolution; Fast fashion: from runway to rack in 14 days.

Key sections

  • 01FASHION / Garments and what they say
  • 02Dressing for the Sun King
  • 03The garment, multiplied
  • 04Worth: the first designer
  • 05Chanel cuts the corset
  • 06Dior's New Look : the hourglass returns
  • 07Hemlines up, boundaries down
  • 08Street steals the spotlight
  • 09The black revolution
  • 10Fast fashion: from runway to rack in 14 days
  • 11The true price of cheap
  • 12The garment uncloths itself
  • 13Continue the conversation

Topics covered

Slide outline
  1. 01FASHION / Garments and what they say
  2. 02Dressing for the Sun King
  3. 03The garment, multiplied
  4. 04Worth: the first designer
  5. 05Chanel cuts the corset
  6. 06Dior's New Look : the hourglass returns
  7. 07Hemlines up, boundaries down
  8. 08Street steals the spotlight
  9. 09The black revolution
  10. 10Fast fashion: from runway to rack in 14 days
  11. 11The true price of cheap
  12. 12The garment uncloths itself
  13. 13Continue the conversation
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Slide 01

FASHION/ Garments and what they say

  • Vol. XIII / The Editorial
  • Five centuries of cut, cloth & code
Slide 02

Dressing for the Sun King

  • FASHION / 02
  • Chapter One — The Sovereign Wardrobe
  • 1500s — 1700s
  • At Versailles, Louis XIV understood that silk and stitching could be statecraft. His regulated luxury — silver brocade, towering wigs, red-heeled shoes — marked rank as plainly as a coat of arms.
  • Across Europe, sumptuary laws dictated what cloth, color, and trim each class could legally wear. Velvet and ermine were aristocratic property. Fashion was law.
  • "Fashion is the mirror of the king." — Louis XIV
Slide 03

The garment, multiplied

  • FASHION / 03
  • Chapter Two — The Machine Stitches
  • Industrial Era
  • Elias Howe patents the lockstitch in 1846; Singer commercializes it. What had taken a seamstress fourteen hours now takes one. Cloth becomes plentiful, labor cheap.
  • Department stores bloom. The middle class buys ready-to-wear off the rack — sized, standardized, and shipped by rail. Aspiration goes mass-market.
Slide 04

Worth: the first designer

  • FASHION / 04
  • Chapter Three — The Inventor of Couture
  • Paris, 1858
  • An Englishman opens a salon at 7 rue de la Paix and rewrites the rules. Charles Frederick Worth signs his garments like an artist signs a canvas. The dressmaker becomes the couturier.
  • He invents the seasonal collection. He drapes live models. He dictates to his clientele instead of obeying them. Empress Eugénie wears him; the world follows.
  • Haute couture is born — with a label sewn in.
Slide 05

Chanel cuts the corset

  • FASHION / 05
  • Chapter Four — Liberation by Jersey
  • 1910s onward
  • Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel borrows from the menswear of her lovers — jersey from polo shirts, tweed from country jackets — and gives women clothes they can move in.
  • The trousers. The cardigan. The cropped hair. The strand of pearls. The Little Black Dress of 1926 that Vogue called "Chanel's Ford" — a uniform of modernity.
Slide 06

Dior's New Look: the hourglass returns

  • FASHION / 06
  • Chapter Five — Postwar Romance
  • 12 February 1947
  • Out of the rationing and shoulder-padded utility of war, Christian Dior unveils a collection of nipped waists, padded hips, and skirts that swallow nine yards of fabric. Carmel Snow of Harper's Bazaar gasps: "It's such a new look." The name sticks.
  • Some women picket. Most rejoice. Femininity, briefly, becomes news.
Slide 07

Hemlines up, boundaries down

  • FASHION / 07
  • Chapter Six — Youthquake
  • The 1960s
  • Two revolutions in one decade. In London, Mary Quant chops the skirt above the knee — the mini — and a generation walks through a door her parents never noticed.
  • In Paris, Yves Saint Laurent answers with Le Smoking (1966): a tuxedo cut for women, sharp as a guillotine. Trousers in the evening. A scandal, then a uniform.
  • "A woman in a man's clothes is never more a woman." — YSL
Slide 08

Street steals the spotlight

  • FASHION / 08
  • Chapter Seven — The Logo on the Sidewalk
  • 1970s onward
  • From the Bronx, hip-hop borrows sportswear and turns it into status. Tommy Hilfiger goes preppy, then preppy goes hip-hop. Stüssy scrawls a surfer's signature on a t-shirt and invents a brand. Supreme opens on Lafayette Street in 1994, drops a box logo, and watches kids queue around the block.
  • For the first time in five centuries, the runway looks up at the sidewalk.
Slide 09

The black revolution

  • FASHION / 09
  • Chapter Eight — Tokyo in Paris
  • 1981 — Paris debut
  • When Yohji Yamamoto and Rei Kawakubo (Comme des Garçons) showed in Paris in 1981, critics called it "Hiroshima chic." Holes. Asymmetry. Black on black on black.
  • They rejected Western tailoring's body-as-billboard for a different proposition: cloth as shelter, cloth as concept. Issey Miyake pleated polyester into geometry; the body became a moving sculpture.
  • Beauty does not require symmetry. It requires intent.
Slide 10

Fast fashion: from runway to rack in 14 days

  • FASHION / 10
  • Chapter Nine — Speed Kills
  • 2000s — present
  • 01 / 1975
  • Zara
  • Inditex builds a vertically integrated supply chain that ships new styles biweekly. Trends become disposable.
  • 02 / 1947
  • H&M
  • Swedish chain perfects cheap-and-cheerful. By 2010 it operates in 38 countries, restocking shelves twice weekly.
  • 03 / 2008
  • Shein
  • China-born, app-native. Drops 6,000 new SKUs daily. Trend cycles compress from seasons to TikToks.
Slide 11

The true price of cheap

  • FASHION / 11
  • Chapter Ten — The Reckoning
  • The Backlash
  • By the 2010s, the receipts arrive. The Rana Plaza collapse in 2013 kills 1,134 garment workers in Dhaka. Documentaries — The True Cost, RiverBlue — surface what the supply chain hid.
  • Fashion accounts for an estimated 10% of global carbon emissions. A single polyester tee sheds microplastics for decades. Resale, rental, and "quiet luxury" emerge as a counter-tide.
Slide 12

The garment uncloths itself

  • FASHION / 12
  • Chapter Eleven — Pixels & Polyester
  • The Digital Frontier
  • 01 / Try-on
  • Virtual fitting rooms
  • AR mirrors and Snap filters let you preview a Gucci loafer or a Dior bag before the box arrives. Returns drop. Engagement spikes.
  • 02 / AI Design
  • The algorithmic atelier
  • Generative models propose colorways, drape simulations, even entire collections. The human designer becomes a curator of machine output.
  • 03 / NFT
  • Skins for the soul
  • Dolce & Gabbana sells $6M of digital couture. Avatars in Roblox wear Gucci. Status migrates from cotton to code.
  • For five hundred years clothing answered one question: who are you in the room? Now it asks: which room?
Slide 13

Continue the conversation

  • FASHION / 13
  • Colophon & Further Reading
  • Five centuries condensed into thirteen frames. The thread, naturally, runs longer.
  • Watch / YouTube
  • History of fashion & couture
  • Coco Chanel — biography
  • Read
  • Couture: The Great Designers — Caroline Rennolds Milbank
  • The End of Fashion — Teri Agins
  • Overdressed — Elizabeth L. Cline
  • Fashion Climbing — Bill Cunningham
  • — Fin —
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