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Slide 01
Middle East.
- Vol. XVII · Deck 7 · The Deck Catalog
- Lebanese, Persian, Turkish, Israeli/Palestinian, Egyptian, North African. Mezze, bread, spice trade roots, Ottolenghi's global reach.
- Earliest bread evidenceShubayqa, ~14,400 BCE
- Yotam OttolenghiOperations since 2002
- Pages30
Slide 02
OpeningWhat we mean by Middle Eastern cuisine.
- Lede02
- Middle Eastern cuisine is a constellation of regional traditions sharing common roots in the eastern Mediterranean and Levantine spice-and-bread tradition. Lebanese, Persian, Turkish, Palestinian, Egyptian, and North African cuisines have historical interconnections without being identical.
- Common features: long-fermented breads (pita, lavash, manakish), the mezze tradition, lamb and chicken as primary meats, vegetables in central roles, spice mixtures (za'atar, ras el hanout, baharat), olive oil dominance, fresh herbs, citrus, dates, pomegranate, tahini.
- This deck covers the major regional traditions, the historical-trade roots, the contemporary scene (Ottolenghi's globalisation, the Turkish kebab diaspora), and how to cook in this tradition at home.
- Vol. XVII— ii —
Slide 03
Chapter IThe fertile crescent.
- Roots03
- ["Wheat, barley, lentil, chickpea, fava bean, sesame, olive — most of the Middle Eastern pantry has 8,000+ year roots in the Fertile Crescent. The cuisine is the world's oldest continuously documented.", 'Bread is the foundational technology. Charred dough fragments from Shubayqa, Jordan (~14,400 BCE) predate agriculture itself. The flatbread tradition (pita, lavash, taboon, baladi) has been continuous since.']
- ME Cuisine— i —
Slide 04
Chapter IIThe mezze tradition.
- Lebanese04
- ['Lebanese cuisine is mezze-centered. Hummus, baba ghanoush, tabbouleh, fattoush, kibbeh, falafel, foul medames, labneh, makdous (oil-cured stuffed eggplant) — multiple small dishes shared across the table.', 'Lebanese cuisine has been particularly diasporic. The Syrian-Lebanese diaspora across the Americas (Brazilian Mexican Lebanese in particular) has established the cuisine globally.']
- ME Cuisine— ii —
Slide 05
Chapter IIIThe slow elegance.
- Persian05
- ['Persian (Iranian) cuisine is among the most refined regional traditions in the world. Long-cooked stews (khoreshts) of meat, vegetables, herbs, and dried fruits served over basmati rice with crisp tahdig (the rice crust).', 'Major dishes: ghormeh sabzi (herb stew), fesenjan (pomegranate-walnut chicken or duck), zereshk polo (barberry rice), ash reshteh (noodle-bean soup), kuku sabzi (herb frittata). The tahdig technique alone is a major culinary achievement.']
- ME Cuisine— iii —
Slide 06
Chapter IVEmpire to street food.
- Turkish06
- ['Turkish cuisine reflects the Ottoman imperial reach. The palace tradition (the Topkapı kitchens fed thousands daily, with dedicated specialists for soup, pilaf, kebab, dessert).', 'The street food: döner kebab (modern in current form, German-Turkish standardisation 1972 onward), simit, börek, lahmacun, manti, kofte. Mezze: meze is the Turkish form of mezze with shared roots.']
- ME Cuisine— iv —
Slide 07
Chapter VContested cuisine.
- Palestinian/Israeli07
- ["The cuisine of historic Palestine — musakhan (sumac-spiced chicken on flatbread), maqluba (upside-down rice with vegetables and meat), ka'ak Al Quds (Jerusalem sesame bread), ful — has been variously claimed and contested.", 'Israeli cuisine, as developed in the 20th century, draws heavily on Palestinian, Yemenite Jewish, Mizrahi, and European Jewish traditions. The political question of authorship and recognition is real and ongoing.']
- ME Cuisine— v —
Slide 08
Chapter VIBread and beans.
- Egyptian08
- ["Egyptian cuisine: ful medames (slow-cooked fava beans, breakfast staple), koshary (rice-pasta-lentil-tomato sauce, the great vegetarian dish), molokhia (jute-leaf soup), ta'meya (Egyptian falafel made from fava beans not chickpeas).", 'Cairo is the largest city in the Arabic-speaking world and one of the great street-food cities. The koshary stand is to Cairo what the noodle stand is to Saigon.']
- ME Cuisine— vi —
Slide 09
Chapter VIIMesopotamia.
- Iraqi09
- ['Iraqi cuisine: masgouf (barbecued Tigris carp, the national dish), tepsi baytinijan (eggplant-meat casserole), kubba (stuffed bulgur balls in many varieties), dolma, biryani (the Iraqi version, distinct from Indian).', 'The pre-2003 Iraqi food tradition has been disrupted by decades of war. Diaspora communities (Detroit, Stockholm, London) have preserved and transmitted the cuisine.']
- ME Cuisine— vii —
Slide 10
Chapter VIIIThe Gulf cuisines.
- Saudi/Gulf10
- ['Gulf Arabic cuisine: kabsa (spiced rice with meat, the Saudi national dish), majboos (Bahraini variant), maqlooba (shared with the Levant), harees (slow-cooked wheat-and-meat porridge), luqaimat (sweet dumplings).', 'The Bedouin tradition — minimal-equipment, fire-pit cooking, dates and camel milk — underlies much Gulf cuisine. Modern Gulf cooking is increasingly globalised but the home-cooking tradition remains conservative.']
- ME Cuisine— viii —
Slide 11
Chapter IXThe Maghreb.
- North African11
- ['Moroccan, Algerian, Tunisian, Libyan cuisines share couscous (the steamed semolina), tagines (clay-pot slow-cooked stews), harissa (chili paste), preserved lemons, olives.', 'Major Moroccan dishes: pastilla (sweet-savoury pigeon pie), bisteeya, tagine of lamb-and-prunes, mechoui. Tunisian: brik (deep-fried egg-stuffed pastry), tunisian harissa. The French colonial period left lasting influence on professional kitchens.']
- ME Cuisine— ix —
Slide 12
Chapter XThe pantry.
- Spices12
- ["The spice trade is foundational. Sumac, za'atar (the herb mixture or the wild thyme variety), Aleppo pepper, baharat, ras el hanout (Moroccan, often 20+ ingredients), Lebanese seven-spice.", 'Saffron (Persian, the most expensive spice), cardamom, cinnamon, cumin, coriander, turmeric, allspice, dried lime (loomi), dried rose petals, sumac. The pantry is large but the preferred combinations are regional.']
- ME Cuisine— x —
Slide 13
Chapter XIThe fat.
- Olive oil13
- ['Olive oil is the dominant cooking fat. Lebanese (typically a fruity green Picholine-style), Palestinian (Nabulsi and Galilean, often peppery), Tunisian (Chetoui-Chemlali), Greek, Italian — each region has distinctive characters.', "Most Middle Eastern cuisine uses olive oil at room temperature for finishing rather than at high heat for cooking. The Mediterranean diet's much-discussed health benefits are substantially the olive-oil benefits."]
- ME Cuisine— xi —
Slide 14
Chapter XIIThe center of the table.
- Bread14
- ["Pita (the puffed pocket flatbread, baked at very high heat). Lavash (Armenian/Persian thin sheets, large enough to wrap food). Taboon (the clay oven and the bread baked in it). Manakish (Lebanese flatbread topped with za'atar or cheese).", 'Bread is typically the eating utensil. Stews are scooped, hummus is dipped, kabob is wrapped. The cuisine assumes warm, fresh bread at every meal.']
- ME Cuisine— xii —
Slide 15
Chapter XIIIThe shared table.
- Mezze15
- ['Mezze (Arabic) / meze (Turkish/Greek) / mazze (Persian) — small dishes served simultaneously, accompanied by bread and often arak or raki (the anise spirit).', 'The mezze meal is structurally social — many small things to share rather than a hierarchy of courses. The hospitality tradition (offering more than guests can eat is a virtue) is deeply embedded.']
- ME Cuisine— xiii —
Slide 16
Chapter XIVThe dairy tradition.
- Yogurt and labneh16
- ['Yogurt is foundational. Labneh (strained yogurt cheese) appears across the cuisine. Ayran/laban (yogurt drink, salted) is widespread.', 'The Mongol-era spread of fermented dairy from Central Asia interacted with existing Mediterranean dairy traditions. Modern Greek yogurt (the strained style commercialised in the 21st century) is essentially labneh under a different name.']
- ME Cuisine— xiv —
Slide 17
Chapter XVThe dessert tradition.
- Sweets17
- ['Baklava (the layered filo-and-nut pastry, contested origin between Greek, Turkish, Armenian, Persian, Arab traditions). Kunafa (Palestinian, cheese-and-syrup-soaked semolina threads). Maamoul (date-stuffed cookies). Halva (sesame paste sweetmeat).', 'The shared dessert tradition is sugar-syrup-and-pastry-and-nut. Strong Turkish coffee or Arabic cardamom coffee accompanies.']
- ME Cuisine— xv —
Slide 18
Chapter XVIThe other ritual.
- Coffee18
- ['Turkish coffee — finely ground, simmered in a cezve, served unfiltered. Arabic coffee (gahwa) — lighter roast, often with cardamom, served small. Yemeni coffee — light roast, served with ginger.', 'Coffee culture is central. The traditional Turkish coffee preparation has been UNESCO-recognised. Modern third-wave coffee (specialty cafes in Beirut, Tehran, Istanbul, Tel Aviv) coexists with traditional preparation.']
- ME Cuisine— xvi —
Slide 19
Chapter XVIIThe popularizer.
- Ottolenghi19
- ['Yotam Ottolenghi (Israeli, London-based, with Sami Tamimi) and his cookbooks (Ottolenghi, Plenty, Jerusalem) have brought eastern Mediterranean cuisine to enormous global audiences since 2008.', "The 'Ottolenghi style' — vegetable-forward, herb-laden, spice-cabinet-deep, photographically beautiful — has been imitated worldwide. The political question of his Israeli identity in the context of disputed Palestinian cuisine is regularly raised."]
- ME Cuisine— xvii —
Slide 20
Chapter XVIIIThe contested dish.
- Hummus20
- ['Hummus (chickpeas, tahini, lemon, garlic, olive oil) is among the most-disputed foods on Earth. Lebanese, Palestinian, Israeli, Syrian, Turkish, Greek, Cypriot claims to invention all exist.', 'The historical record gives chickpea-based dishes a long history in the eastern Mediterranean. The specific modern hummus — with tahini — is probably medieval or older, with documentation in 13th-century Egyptian cookbooks.']
- ME Cuisine— xviii —
Slide 21
Chapter XIXWhere the cuisines went.
- Diaspora21
- ['Lebanese diaspora: Brazil (4M+), Mexico, Argentina, US, France, West Africa, Australia. Mexican-Lebanese fusion (taquerias built on shawarma method). Brazilian Lebanese (esfiha as a national snack).', "Turkish diaspora: Germany (3M+), Netherlands, France, UK, US. Döner kebab as one of Germany's most-consumed foods. Iranian diaspora: US (especially LA, 'Tehrangeles'), UK, France."]
- ME Cuisine— xix —
Slide 22
Chapter XXThe contemporary scene.
- Restaurants22
- ["Major restaurants: Zahav (Philadelphia, Michael Solomonov), Rüya (Dubai/London), Anan (Cairo), Em Sherif (Beirut), Saramanchak (Istanbul). Ottolenghi's NOPI (London). Eyal Shani's restaurants (Miznon, North Abraxas).", "The 2010s and 2020s have seen Middle Eastern cuisine move firmly into the global fine-dining conversation. Several Michelin-starred restaurants and significant World's 50 Best showings."]
- ME Cuisine— xx —
Slide 23
Chapter XXICuisine and conflict.
- Politics23
- ['Food has been a battleground in the Israeli-Palestinian conflict, the Lebanese civil war legacy, the Syrian war diaspora, and broader Middle Eastern politics. Origin claims are politically loaded.', 'Reza Mohammadi, Joudie Kalla, Reem Kassis, Sami Tamimi, and other writers have engaged the politics of cuisine directly. The work of Palestinian food writers in particular has gained substantial international recognition since 2015.']
- ME Cuisine— xxi —
Slide 24
Chapter XXIIWhere to start.
- Home cooking24
- ['For novices: hummus (from canned chickpeas, the easy version), tabbouleh, fattoush, shakshuka, ful medames. These four dishes give a working introduction.', 'For more ambitious: chicken shawarma (sheet-pan adaptation), maqluba, kafta, baba ghanoush from charred eggplant, fesenjan. The Ottolenghi books are accessible starting points.']
- ME Cuisine— xxii —
Slide 25
Chapter XXIIITwenty-five works.
- Reading list25
- 13th CKitab al-Tabikh (Baghdadi cookbook)al-Baghdadi
- 1226Kitab al-Wusla ila al-Habibal-Mukhtar
- 16th COttoman palace cookbooksVarious
- 1928Persian CookeryVarious
- 1968A Book of Middle Eastern FoodRoden
- 1985The Foods of the Greek IslandsKremezi
- 1996Mediterranean Grains and GreensWolfert
- 2008Ottolenghi: The CookbookOttolenghi & Tamimi
- 2010PlentyOttolenghi
- 2010The Persian KitchenNajmieh Batmanglij
- 2011JerusalemOttolenghi & Tamimi
- 2014The Palestinian TableReem Kassis
- 2015Pomegranate SoupMehran
- 2016FalastinTamimi
- 2017ZahavSolomonov & Cook
- 2018The Arabesque TableReem Kassis
- 2019BavelSaxon
- 2020Persiana EverydaySabrina Ghayour
- 2020SoframizAna Sortun & Maura Kilpatrick
- 2021Eat Habibi EatShahir Massoud
- 2022Saffron in the SouksJohn Gregory-Smith
- 2023BayrutMahir Ashshurmar
- 2023Cucina Mediterranea (Palestinian focus)Various
- 2024Levantine cookbook trendsVarious
- 2024The contemporary Saudi cookbookVarious
- ME Cuisine— xxiii —
Slide 26
Chapter XXIVWatch & read.
- Watch & Read26
- ↑ Middle Eastern cuisine — mezze and home cooking
- More on YouTube
- Watch · Hummus and the Lebanese-Palestinian-Israeli debate
- Watch · Persian rice and tahdig technique
- ME Cuisine— xxiv —
Slide 27
Chapter XXVIf you want to learn it.
- How to start27
- For beginners. Start with Roden's A Book of Middle Eastern Food (1968) for the historical sweep, then Ottolenghi's Jerusalem for the practical entry. Reem Kassis's The Palestinian Table for a Palestinian perspective. Najmieh Batmanglij for Persian cuisine specifically.
- For pantry. Stock: za'atar blend, sumac, Aleppo pepper, ras el hanout, tahini (a good one — Soom or Al Wadi), good olive oil, dried chickpeas (or canned), bulgur, semolina, dates, pomegranate molasses, rose water, orange-flower water. The investment is ~$50-100 and unlocks many dishes.
- For visiting. Beirut's restaurant scene (Em Sherif, Tawlet, Souk el Tayeb), Istanbul (Çiya, Hala Manti, the Asitane Ottoman-revival), Tel Aviv (Manta Ray, Shaffa, Eyal Shani), Cairo (Abou Tarek for koshary, Felfela), Tehran (when accessible). The cuisine varies dramatically across cities.
- For cooking class. The Sur la Table chains, ICE NYC, and most major culinary schools offer Middle Eastern courses. The Ottolenghi book recipes are well-tested and forgiving for home cooks.
- ME Cuisine— xxv —
Slide 28
Chapter XXVIWhy it matters.
- Argument28
- Among the world's deepest culinary traditions. The Fertile Crescent gave humanity bread and many of its staple grains. The eastern Mediterranean continues to produce some of the most-flavorful, vegetable-rich, deeply-historical cuisine on Earth.
- The cuisine has gone global. Hummus is now a supermarket staple in most Western countries. Shawarma stands exist on every continent. Ottolenghi's cookbooks have sold millions. The cultural prestige is high.
- Politics and food are entangled. Origin claims (hummus, falafel, baklava, pita) carry weight. Palestinian cookbook authors have argued — increasingly successfully — for explicit Palestinian recognition in cuisine that has often been labeled 'Middle Eastern' or 'Mediterranean' in ways that erase specific origins.
- ME Cuisine— xxvi —
Slide 29
Chapter XXVIIThe next decade.
- Where it goes29
- Continued globalisation. Middle Eastern cuisine remains in expansion phase in Western markets. The 2020s have seen substantial growth.
- The political conversation. Origin debates and recognition politics will continue. Palestinian cookbook authors and Levantine food writers have permanently shifted the discourse.
- Restaurant innovation. Beirut, Tel Aviv, Istanbul, and Dubai are producing world-class restaurants engaging with regional cuisine creatively. The next World's 50 Best generation will likely include several from the region.
- The vegetable-forward shift. The cuisine's strong vegetable tradition aligns with broader 21st-century plant-forward eating. Many of the most-cited 'plant-based' restaurants of the 2020s draw heavily on Levantine technique.
- ME Cuisine— xxvii —
Slide 30
The end of the deck.
- Colophon30
- Middle Eastern Cuisine — Volume XVII, Deck 7 of The Deck Catalog. Set in Cormorant Garamond italic. Sand-paper #f3eada with rust, jade, and saffron accents.
- FINIS
- ↑ Vol. XVII · ME Cuisine · Deck 7
